When you correctly thread both strands of the rope, equal force is placed on each strand, which keeps the rope from slipping through the anchor. One of the most common mistakes is the failure to capture both strands of a double-rope rappel in the rappel device. In a multi-pitch rappel setting, this decreases the likelihood of ropes getting stuck and provides the security of a closed system. If you’re afraid that your rope will get stuck after you throw it-maybe because of vegetation or broken, blocky terrain, or if there are other climbers below-consider tying the ends of the rope off and clipping them to a gear loop, then rappelling with saddlebags. Knots in the rope will keep such a thing from being anything other than a small problem that’s easily fixable. People seldom think about tying knots in the ends of the rope in single-pitch terrain, but ironically, that’s where most people accidentally rappel off a single end. This is a simple method that is often overlooked, but closing the system should be a default tactic. Often tying knots in the ends of the ropes is the easiest and most straightforward, and the triple barrel knot is a clean knot that won’t slip through any belay device. Photo: Elliott NatzĪlways close the system. Limiting the amount of time spent rappelling is a surefire way to limit the amount of exposure to potential mistakes. It might take longer and require more energy, but hiking while tired is a lot less dangerous than putting complicated rope and rappel systems into practice while tired. If it is possible to safely walk off from the top of a climb, just walk off. It’s not rappelling once or twice that’s dangerous it’s rappelling all the time that leads to complacency and real danger. As the Director of Operations and a guide for the American Alpine Institute, I’ve compiled a list of five easy steps every climber can take to minimize the chances of a rappel accident. While many climbing accidents can leave a climber injured, almost all rappelling accidents leave the climber dead, so there’s no room for error here. While the risks associated with rappelling-and climbing for that matter-can never be totally eliminated, there are steps we can take to boost security and mitigate hazards. Since 1951, Accidents in North American Mountaineering has chronicled hundreds of rappelling accidents and fatalities in the United States and Canada. This originally appeared in the December 2015 issue of our print edition. Heading out the door? Read this article on the new Outside+ app available now on iOS devices for members!
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |